Rhubarb is such a delight. In early spring, great big bundles of it push out of the ground, and its red stalks and broad, green leaves — suddenly everywhere — are a humble harbinger of warmer weather and the beginning of Minnesota’s growing season. It’s a favorite in our kitchen, where we use it to make cocktails, chutney, and of course, pie.
For this rustic pastry, we tossed the bitter stalks with lemon, thyme, and a small amount of sugar and tucked them into a thin yet buttery crust. The result is a light, crispy tart that’s both savory and sweet. Here, we put a dollop of crème fraîche on it to make an appetizer, but you could easily top it with whipped cream and call it dessert.